The Côtes d'Armor via the Bréhat island
The Côtes d'Armor via the Bréhat island
Day 1
My journey to the Côtes d'Armor begins at the Nantouar lighthouse, located at the southeastern tip of Perros-Guirec harbor, on the shore of the cove of the same name.
Built between 1859 and 1860, it consists of a white 10 m tower attached to the gable of the caretaker's house. It was commissioned in August 1860, electrified in 1937 and finally decommissioned in 1976. The building was sold in 1994 to a private owner, and for a time was listed by Gîtes de France.
My journey continues towards the Sentinel rock, in Port-Blanc, a small village in Penvénan, and its oratory surmounted by a cross and adorned with two statues: that of Saint Tugdual and that of Our Lady of the Sea.
An oratory is a place dedicated to prayer or a small building calling for prayer, dedicated to the cult of a saint represented by a statuette.
I then head up the coast towards the tide mill on the island of Balanec. Built on a dike in 1498 by the Lord of Keralio de Plougrescant. It is thought to have operated until the middle of the 18th century, when it was destroyed. In 1836-37, a shipowner and merchant from Tréguier undertook to build a second mill on the same site, the mill we know today.
Still heading up the coast, my route takes me to the Plougrescant chasm, a popular tourist spot in summer but deserted in March. The place is famous for its house between the rocks (Castel Meur) emblematic place of Plougrescant.
I then cut inland to reach the village of Loguivy de la Mer. From the little port, you can see the La Croix lighthouse off the coast of Ploubazlanec. This 18.50 metre high lighthouse was built in 1867 on the Croix rock. It was automated in 1911, destroyed by the Germans in 1944 and rebuilt identically in 1949.
In the village, at the end of a dead end, a hidden small path provides access to the beach and a clear view of the island of Roc'h Conan and its ruined house. (No information has been found on this building, which suggests that it is not listed as a heritage site as a guardhouse or customs hut.)
My day ends with this superb view of the La Croix lighthouse.
Day 2
8:00 am, I board the first shuttle from Arcouest to the island of Bréhat under a heavy sky and a hailstorm that obscure the few timid rays of sun.
I rent an electric bike to explore the island's paths, with very steep slopes in place, and head off to my first spots: the citadel, the Kerpont rescue shelter and slipway, and Nod Goven beach.
Unfortunately, the weather is rainy, no way to take any great photos...
I head northeast to reach the magnificent Birlot tide mill. Built between 1633 and 1638, it belonged to the Duke of Penthièvre, illegitimate son of Henry IV, and lord of the island of Bréhat. The mill has continued to grind grain to produce flour for the Bréhatins until 1920, when a baker came to settle on the island and imported his flour from the mainland, thus condemning the mill to silence. The site, along with the dike and pond, was then purchased in 1990 by the town, and today, an association oversees its upkeep and maintenance.
To the west of the north island, inland, I discover the Rosédo lighthouse, on the site of the same name (Wheat Land). Built of granite and measuring 13 meters high, it replaces a previous lighthouse built in 1858 which was destroyed by the Germans in 1944. When it was rebuilt in 1948, it was fully automated with a white flash fire.
I continue to the north-east of the island to reach the Peacock lighthouse which stands majestically on a rocky point. Built in red granite, it stands 11.70 metres high. It replaces a previous lighthouse built in 1853 and destroyed by the Germans in 1944, at the same time as the Rosédo lighthouse. When it was rebuilt in 1949, it was fully automated with a fixed light.
According to legend, Mériadek, Count of Goëlo, had two sons: Gwil and Isselbert, who, in order to quickly obtain their father's inheritance, decided to kill him. He tried to escape but his sons caught up at the Peacock tip and the father was murdered. When throwing the body into the sea, the two sons were petrified and transformed into rocks, the blood of the deceased giving its colour to the granite. Thus was born the Peacock Abyss.
Another legend about this place: in the past, young Bréhatines would come to the edge of the Peacock Abyss to throw a stone into it. If the stone fell directly into the water, they would get married within the year; otherwise, they had to wait as many years as bounces.
To the west of the lighthouse, on the edge of the coastal path, there is an old customs hut.
I return to the center of the south island to access the Saint-Michel chapel and its cross dating from the seventeenth century, highest point of the island at 33 meters above sea level. This location offers a 360° view of the island.
I return the bike and board the shuttle to return to the mainland. I take the opportunity to take a few photos from the boat as it leaves the harbour.
My day ends on the island of Bréhat.
My day begins with the Kerroc'h tower. Built in the second half of the 19th century on a promontory, this tower overlooks the bay of Paimpol. The building, topped by a statue of the Virgin Mary, was built to bless the boats heading out to fish off the coast of Iceland, that paid a heavy price in storms.
I pass Paimpol and Beauport Abbey, closed that morning, to head further down the coast towards the Craca mill. This mill, built in 1844 and restored to its original state in 1966, is the only survivor of the twelve mills in the commune of Plouézec. It is built on a cliff 60 metres above sea level and 80 metres from the sea.
My photo session was cut short by a threatening thunderstorm... the weather changes quickly by the sea!
I continue towards the Bilfot tip and the view of the Ost-Pic lighthouse. Built between 1893 and 1894, the Ost-Pic lighthouse was lit on 15 August 1894 and automated in 1911. In 1944, the top of the building was destroyed by German troops, but on 19 March 1948, the lighthouse was rebuilt and relit.
And I still have to deal with a storm and strong winds at the end of this photo shoot...
I go down the coast towards the Binic lighthouse, which was built in 1954 at the end of the Penthièvre jetty, a wall over 350m long that protect the harbour basins.
My last stop of these three days is at the Saint-Maurice chapel which overlooks the bay of Saint-Brieuc from the top of a cliff in Morieux. Built on the rock of Saint-Maurice between 1870 and 1880, it stood the test of time until 1940 when it will be used as an observatory by German troops loosing so its altar, stained glass windows and bell. It was finally restored in 1983 by an association for the conservation of the site.
